Monument Valley has been on my to-do list since literally forever.
Ever since my first visit to the US back in 2009, I’ve wanted to visit the iconic desert destination, but somehow it never quite fit into my travel plans… until now.
This year, Rob and I decided to do a southwest road trip just after summer, and I made sure that Monument Valley was locked in to our itinerary. While I was planning out the trip details, the idea of glamping in the desert popped into my head. This trip would be the perfect opportunity to try out a trendy new form of accommodation.
If you haven’t already heard of glamping, here’s the deal: It’s like camping, but a little more glamorous. You might have a proper bed, or a raised platform to camp on, or a larger, more spacious tent. You might have some sort of service included (like a cooked breakfast), and you likely won’t be at a noisy campsite with partygoers who are making noise until 2AM.
A few months ago, I wrote about my relationship with camping. By upgrading the camping experience, I hoped that a few extra luxuries might allow me to actually enjoy sleeping outdoors this time around.
There were a few glamping options in the southwest, but the one I ended up choosing was a teepee in Monument Valley. I really wanted to choose a place where I might be able to see the stars, and I loved the idea of fully immersing myself in the desert. Here’s all the info on my desert glamping experience in Monument Valley!
Desert glamping experience
We stayed in a teepee at the Monument Valley Tipi Village. This place is run by a Navajo family, and it’s actually just a regular campground. There are a few powered sites for caravans, some unpowered sites for tents, and about 8 teepees scattered around the site. The teepees cost $90 USD per night during the summer season.
We ended up in one of the newer teepees outside the fenced campground. This was both a good and bad thing: The good side was that it was further away from the main campground and therefore more private, the bad side was that these teepees had no power supply and were further away from the bathrooms.
Our teepee was much larger than I expected! We entered through the flap, and found that it had 2 single beds set up on each side of the tent. It also had a camp table with a battery-powered lamp, and a box filled with extra blankets. The floor was carpeted so it felt much nicer than a regular tent.
Outside, we had a private campfire and picnic bench. As evening fell, we purchased some wood for a fire and then ate our dinner while the stars revealed themselves. I’ve seen some excellent starry skies in my time, but this one was honestly the best. It was so peaceful to sit in the desert and spot shooting stars, high-altitude planes, and satellites moving overhead.
After retreating into our teepee, we jumped into our separate beds. It got cold overnight, and even with the extra blankets, Rob and I both felt like we could have been warmer. At one stage we just squeezed into the same bed to steal body heat, which definitely made the cold more tolerable.
In the morning, I woke early and made it outside just before the sun rose over the desert. It was one of the most amazing things to watch. Aside from the barking of a nearby dog, I could hear nothing else around me – it was just me and the desert and the sunrise.
There were only 2 combined bathrooms/showers at the campsite (definitely not enough considering how many people were staying there) and when we checked in the morning they were both busy, so Rob and I both decided to forgo the shower and take off for our next destination straight after breakfast.
Even though our glamping experience did still feel as though we camped in the desert, I definitely enjoyed it more than I would have if I was in a regular tent. The spacious teepee and real bed made a huge difference to my comfort levels.
It was also great that we didn’t have to take any camping gear – having everything already set up for us on arrival made things so much easier for us. I can now conclusively say that I much prefer glamping to regular camping!
How to get to Monument Valley:
Monument Valley is in southeast Utah, right near the Arizona border. It’s not particularly near any major cities or airports which makes it a little tricky to get to.
The closest major airports are Las Vegas or Salt Lake City, both of which are about 7 hours drive away. If you want to fly somewhere closer, then Flagstaff AZ would be your best bet as it’s only 3 hours drive away.
The drive into Monument Valley is via Highway 163 from the north through Utah, or the south through Arizona. Rob and I were coming from Mesa Verde in Colorado so we rented a car in Denver and drove in via the north (which is where we got that phenomenal view pictured above!) then drove out via the south on our way to Page AZ.
We were initially going to drive through the valley and not spend much time there, but I’m so glad that we ended up staying overnight! If you’re interested in seeing Monument Valley as part of a multi-day tour, here are a few options:
- 4-day Las Vegas to Grand Canyon (camping)
- 4-day Las Vegas to Grand Canyon (hotel)
- 7-day Southwest National Parks Camping Tour
- 10-day Canyon Adventure
Accommodation in Monument Valley:
There are other accommodation options if glamping isn’t your thing. Goulding’s Lodge is one of the most popular as it has rooms that have amazing views of the desert. The View Hotel is another option with hotel rooms and cabins. This is the only hotel inside of the Navajo Park.
If you’re going to book either of these hotels, be sure to reserve your room far in advance as they book up quickly.
Where to eat in Monument Valley:
There are a few restaurant options in Monument Valley. We ended up eating at Goulding’s Lodge restaurant for lunch when we first arrived. This restaurant was large and had amazing views. The food was ok – it mostly consisted of the deep-fried American foods that you’d expect from a restaurant in the middle of literally nowhere.
According to the Goulding’s website there is a coffee shop on site, though I didn’t see this when I was there. There is also a grocery store near the Goulding’s campsite that you can go to for supplies. We ended up stocking up on crackers and hummus to take back to our teepee for dinner.
As far as I can tell, the only other option for food at Monument Valley is The View Restaurant, which is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Seeing as this is the only place inside the Navajo Park, I imagine it’s the most popular.
Things to do in Monument Valley:
There are loads of things to do in Monument Valley. Start with the Monument Valley Visitor Center, which has awesome views of the mesas and buttes (ie. the massive rocks!). This is inside the Navajo Park, and the entrance fee is $20 USD per vehicle (for up to 4 people).
Self-drive loop: Start at the visitor center, then drive along the only road. The road is a 17-mile dirt loop that takes you in and around the mesas. There are numerous stops along the way where you can pull over for photos or buy wares from the Navajo people.
Valley tour: You can choose to do the loop as part of a Monument Valley backcountry tour, which is what we ended up doing. There are definitely benefits to doing a tour with a Navajo guide over the self-drive loop:
- You get to sit in the back of a truck while your guide drives through the desert. Feeling the air and dust on your skin makes you feel more connected with the land instead of being closed up inside a car.
- You get to visit restricted areas of the park which are available only to guided tours. These areas are pretty special and include spiritual sites and rock monuments where your Navajo guide will play music. This was definitely my favourite part of the tour.
- Your Navajo guide will point out all the best viewpoints for photos, and will also be happy to take photos of you.
My thoughts on the tour was that it’s expensive considering half of the tour is doing the same stuff as the self-drive loop, BUT I honestly think that you just can’t get the same experience doing it yourself, so the cost was worth it. If you want the full Monument Valley desert experience, the tour is going to be the best option.
Goulding’s Museum: This museum was tiny and the entrance fee was by donation, so it’s one of the cheapest activities in Monument Valley. The museum had information about the history of the lodge and movie posters from all the films that have been set in the area.
Wildcat Trail hike: This 4-mile roundtrip hike starts at The View Campground and descends 900 feet to the valley floor and then takes you around one of the buttes.
Forrest Gump: You can stop at the Forrest Gump filming location where he completed his run in the movie! There’s even a sign commemorating it beside the highway.
Tips for visiting Monument Valley:
When to visit: Temperatures in Monument Valley range drastically from 68-94°F (20-34°C) in July to 25-42°F (-4-5°C) in January. The shoulder seasons are probably the best time to visit if you want to avoid the summer crowds.
Most people will drive through Monument Valley in the middle of the day, but I think the best time to visit is the early morning or late afternoon. The rocks seem to change colour throughout the day and I definitely think sunrise and sunset was when they looked their best.
Stay hydrated: It goes without saying: The desert is dry AF. Stay hydrated and keep your energy levels up by having a water bottle and some snacks with you at all times.
What to bring: During the summer, Monument Valley can get extremely hot. Take sunscreen and a hat with you during the day, and if you’ll be there after the sun sets, have a warm jacket on hand as it will get cool at night.
Also note that everything you wear will be covered in a layer of red dust afterwards! Don’t worry, it will wash out.
Gas stations: Gas stations are sparse throughout Monument Valley. There is one station near Goulding’s Lodge, then the next station in either direction is about 20-25 miles away.
Cell signal: There is cell signal at certain points in Monument Valley, though there are also dead zones. I couldn’t get any signal from our campground, though it didn’t bother me that much as I was getting into the off-grid experience!
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